When we came to Pampeluna itself, we found it so indeed; and to me, that had 
been always used to a hot climate, and to countries where I could scarce bear any 
clothes on, the cold was insufferable; nor, indeed, was it more painful than surprising 
to come but ten days before out of Old Castile, where the weather was not only warm 
but very hot, and immediately to feel a wind from the Pyrenean Mountains so very 
keen, so severely cold, as to be intolerable and to endanger benumbing and perishing 
of our fingers and toes.
Poor Friday was really frightened when he saw the mountains all covered with 
snow, and felt cold weather, which he had never seen or felt before in his life. 
To mend the matter, when we came to Pampeluna it continued snowing with so much 
violence and so long, that the people said winter was come before its time; and 
the roads, which were difficult before, were now quite impassable; for, in a word, 
the snow lay in some places too thick for us to travel, and being not hard frozen, 
as is the case in the northern countries, there was no going without being in danger 
of being buried alive every step. We stayed no less than twenty days at Pampeluna; 
when (seeing the winter coming on, and no likelihood of its being better, for it 
was the severest winter all over Europe that had been known in the memory of man) 
I proposed that we should go away to Fontarabia, and there take shipping for Bordeaux, 
which was a very little voyage. But, while I was considering this, there came in 
four French gentlemen, who, having been stopped on the French side of the passes, 
as we were on the Spanish, had found out a guide, who, traversing the country near 
the head of Languedoc, had brought them over the mountains by such ways that they 
were not much incommoded with the snow; for where they met with snow in any quantity, 
they said it was frozen hard enough to bear them and their horses. We sent for this 
guide, who told us he would undertake to carry us the same way, with no hazard from 
the snow, provided we were armed sufficiently to protect ourselves from wild beasts; 
for, he said, in these great snows it was frequent for some wolves to show themselves 
at the foot of the mountains, being made ravenous for want of food, the ground being 
covered with snow. We told him we were well enough prepared for such creatures as 
they were, if he would insure us from a kind of two-legged wolves, which we were 
told we were in most danger from, especially on the French side of the mountains. 
He satisfied us that there was no danger of that kind in the way that we were to 
go; so we readily agreed to follow him, as did also twelve other gentlemen with 
their servants, some French, some Spanish, who, as I said, had attempted to go, 
and were obliged to come back again.
Accordingly, we set out from Pampeluna with our guide on the 15th of November; 
and indeed I was surprised when, instead of going forward, he came directly back 
with us on the same road that we came from Madrid, about twenty miles; when, having 
passed two rivers, and come into the plain country, we found ourselves in a warm 
climate again, where the country was pleasant, and no snow to be seen; but, on a 
sudden, turning to his left, he approached the mountains another way; and though 
it is true the hills and precipices looked dreadful, yet he made so many tours, 
such meanders, and led us by such winding ways, that we insensibly passed the height 
of the mountains without being much encumbered with the snow; and all on a sudden 
he showed us the pleasant and fruitful provinces of Languedoc and Gascony, all green 
and flourishing, though at a great distance, and we had some rough way to pass still.
We were a little uneasy, however, when we found it snowed one whole day and a 
night so fast that we could not travel; but he bid us be easy; we should soon be 
past it all: we found, indeed, that we began to descend every day, and to come more 
north than before; and so, depending upon our guide, we went on.
It was about two hours before night when, our guide being something before us, 
and not just in sight, out rushed three monstrous wolves, and after them a bear, 
from a hollow way adjoining to a thick wood; two of the wolves made at the guide, 
and had he been far before us, he would have been devoured before we could have 
helped him; one of them fastened upon his horse, and the other attacked the man 
with such violence, that he had not time, or presence of mind enough, to draw his 
pistol, but hallooed and cried out to us most lustily. My man Friday being next 
me, I bade him ride up and see what was the matter. As soon as Friday came in sight 
of the man, he hallooed out as loud as the other, "O master! O master!" but like 
a bold fellow, rode directly up to the poor man, and with his pistol shot the wolf 
in the head that attacked him.
It was happy for the poor man that it was my man Friday; for, having been used 
to such creatures in his country, he had no fear upon him, but went close up to 
him and shot him; whereas, any other of us would have fired at a farther distance, 
and have perhaps either missed the wolf or endangered shooting the man.
But it was enough to have terrified a bolder man than I; and, indeed, it alarmed 
all our company, when, with the noise of Friday's pistol, we heard on both sides 
the most dismal howling of wolves; and the noise, redoubled by the echo of the mountains, 
appeared to us as if there had been a prodigious number of them; and perhaps there 
was not such a few as that we had no cause of apprehension: however, as Friday had 
killed this wolf, the other that had fastened upon the horse left him immediately, 
and fled, without doing him any damage, having happily fastened upon his head, where 
the bosses of the bridle had stuck in his teeth. But the man was most hurt; for 
the raging creature had bit him twice, once in the arm, and the other time a little 
above his knee; and though he had made some defence, he was just tumbling down by 
the disorder of his horse, when Friday came up and shot the wolf.
It is easy to suppose that at the noise of Friday's pistol we all mended our 
pace, and rode up as fast as the way, which was very difficult, would give us leave, 
to see what was the matter. As soon as we came clear of the trees, which blinded 
us before, we saw clearly what had been the case, and how Friday had disengaged 
the poor guide, though we did not presently discern what kind of creature it was 
he had killed.
CHAPTER XX - FIGHT BETWEEN FRIDAY AND A BEAR
BUT never was a fight managed so hardily, and in such a surprising manner as 
that which followed between Friday and the bear, which gave us all, though at first 
we were surprised and afraid for him, the greatest diversion imaginable. As the 
bear is a heavy, clumsy creature, and does not gallop as the wolf does, who is swift 
and light, so he has two particular qualities, which generally are the rule of his 
actions; first, as to men, who are not his proper prey (he does not usually attempt 
them, except they first attack him, unless he be excessively hungry, which it is 
probable might now be the case, the ground being covered with snow), if you do not 
meddle with him, he will not meddle with you; but then you must take care to be 
very civil to him, and give him the road, for he is a very nice gentleman; he will 
not go a step out of his way for a prince; nay, if you are really afraid, your best 
way is to look another way and keep going on; for sometimes if you stop, and stand 
still, and look steadfastly at him, he takes it for an affront; but if you throw 
or toss anything at him, though it were but a bit of stick as big as your finger, 
he thinks himself abused, and sets all other business aside to pursue his revenge, 
and will have satisfaction in point of honour - that is his first quality: the next 
is, if he be once affronted, he will never leave you, night or day, till he has 
his revenge, but follows at a good round rate till he overtakes you.
My man Friday had delivered our guide, and when we came up to him he was helping 
him off his horse, for the man was both hurt and frightened, when on a sudden we 
espied the bear come out of the wood; and a monstrous one it was, the biggest by 
far that ever I saw. We were all a little surprised when we saw him; but when Friday 
saw him, it was easy to see joy and courage in the fellow's countenance. "O! O! 
O!" says Friday, three times, pointing to him; "O master, you give me te leave, 
me shakee te hand with him; me makee you good laugh."
I was surprised to see the fellow so well pleased. "You fool," says I, "he will 
eat you up." - "Eatee me up! eatee me up!" says Friday, twice over again; "me eatee 
him up; me makee you good laugh; you all stay here, me show you good laugh." So 
down he sits, and gets off his boots in a moment, and puts on a pair of pumps (as 
we call the flat shoes they wear, and which he had in his pocket), gives my other 
servant his horse, and with his gun away he flew, swift like the wind.
The bear was walking softly on, and offered to meddle with nobody, till Friday 
coming pretty near, calls to him, as if the bear could understand him. "Hark ye, 
hark ye," says Friday, "me speakee with you." We followed at a distance, for now 
being down on the Gascony side of the mountains, we were entered a vast forest, 
where the country was plain and pretty open, though it had many trees in it scattered 
here and there. Friday, who had, as we say, the heels of the bear, came up with 
him quickly, and took up a great stone, and threw it at him, and hit him just on 
the head, but did him no more harm than if he had thrown it against a wall; but 
it answered Friday's end, for the rogue was so void of fear that he did it purely 
to make the bear follow him, and show us some laugh as he called it. As soon as 
the bear felt the blow, and saw him, he turns about and comes after him, taking 
very long strides, and shuffling on at a strange rate, so as would have put a horse 
to a middling gallop; away reins Friday, and takes his course as if he ran towards 
us for help; so we all resolved to fire at once upon the bear, and deliver my man; 
though I was angry at him for bringing the bear back upon us, when he was going 
about his own business another way; and especially I was angry that he had turned 
the bear upon us, and then ran away; and I called out, "You dog! is this your making 
us laugh? Come away, and take your horse, that we may shoot the creature." He heard 
me, and cried out, "No shoot, no shoot; stand still, and you get much laugh:" and 
as the nimble creature ran two feet for the bear's one, he turned on a sudden on 
one side of us, and seeing a great oak-tree fit for his purpose, he beckoned to 
us to follow; and doubling his pace, he got nimbly up the tree, laying his gun down 
upon the ground, at about five or six yards from the bottom of the tree. The bear 
soon came to the tree, and we followed at a distance: the first thing he did he 
stopped at the gun, smelt at it, but let it lie, and up he scrambles into the tree, 
climbing like a cat, though so monstrous heavy. I was amazed at the folly, as I 
thought it, of my man, and could not for my life see anything to laugh at, till 
seeing the bear get up the tree, we all rode near to him.
When we came to the tree, there was Friday got out to the small end of a large 
branch, and the bear got about half-way to him. As soon as the bear got out to that 
part where the limb of the tree was weaker, "Ha!" says he to us, "now you see me 
teachee the bear dance:" so he began jumping and shaking the bough, at which the 
bear began to totter, but stood still, and began to look behind him, to see how 
he should get back; then, indeed, we did laugh heartily. But Friday had not done 
with him by a great deal; when seeing him stand still, he called out to him again, 
as if he had supposed the bear could speak English, "What, you come no farther? 
pray you come farther;" so he left jumping and shaking the tree; and the bear, just 
as if he understood what he said, did come a little farther; then he began jumping 
again, and the bear stopped again. We thought now was a good time to knock him in 
the head, and called to Friday to stand still and we should shoot the bear: but 
he cried out earnestly, "Oh, pray! Oh, pray! no shoot, me shoot by and then:" he 
would have said by-and-by. However, to shorten the story, Friday danced so much, 
and the bear stood so ticklish, that we had laughing enough, but still could not 
imagine what the fellow would do: for first we thought he depended upon shaking 
the bear off; and we found the bear was too cunning for that too; for he would not 
go out far enough to be thrown down, but clung fast with his great broad claws and 
feet, so that we could not imagine what would be the end of it, and what the jest 
would be at last. But Friday put us out of doubt quickly: for seeing the bear cling 
fast to the bough, and that he would not be persuaded to come any farther, "Well, 
well," says Friday, "you no come farther, me go; you no come to me, me come to you;" 
and upon this he went out to the smaller end, where it would bend with his weight, 
and gently let himself down by it, sliding down the bough till he came near enough 
to jump down on his feet, and away he ran to his gun, took it up, and stood still. 
"Well," said I to him, "Friday, what will you do now? Why don't you shoot him?" 
"No shoot," says Friday, "no yet; me shoot now, me no kill; me stay, give you one 
more laugh:" and, indeed, so he did; for when the bear saw his enemy gone, he came 
back from the bough, where he stood, but did it very cautiously, looking behind 
him every step, and coming backward till he got into the body of the tree, then, 
with the same hinder end foremost, he came down the tree, grasping it with his claws, 
and moving one foot at a time, very leisurely. At this juncture, and just before 
he could set his hind foot on the ground, Friday stepped up close to him, clapped 
the muzzle of his piece into his ear, and shot him dead. Then the rogue turned about 
to see if we did not laugh; and when he saw we were pleased by our looks, he began 
to laugh very loud. "So we kill bear in my country," says Friday. "So you kill them?" 
says I; "why, you have no guns." - "No," says he, "no gun, but shoot great much 
long arrow." This was a good diversion to us; but we were still in a wild place, 
and our guide very much hurt, and what to do we hardly knew; the howling of wolves 
ran much in my head; and, indeed, except the noise I once heard on the shore of 
Africa, of which I have said something already, I never heard anything that filled 
me with so much horror.