Dorchester, like Wallingford, was a city in ancient British times; it was then
called Caer Doren, ''the city on the water.'' In more recent times the Romans formed
a great camp here, the fortifications surrounding which now seem like low, even
hills. In Saxon days it was the capital of Wessex. It is very old, and it was very
strong and great once. Now it sits aside from the stirring world, and nods and dreams.
Round Clifton Hampden, itself a wonderfully pretty village, old– fashioned, peaceful,
and dainty with flowers, the river scenery is rich and beautiful. If you stay the
night on land at Clifton, you cannot do better than put up at the ''Barley Mow.''
It is, without exception, I should say, the quaintest, most old-world inn up the
river. It stands on the right of the bridge, quite away from the village. Its low-pitched
gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story-book appearance,
while inside it is even still more once-upon-a-timeyfied.
It would not be a good place for the heroine of a modern novel to stay at. The
heroine of a modern novel is always ''divinely tall,'' and she is ever ''drawing
herself up to her full height.'' At the ''Barley Mow'' she would bump her head against
the ceiling each time she did this.
It would also be a bad house for a drunken man to put up at. There are too many
surprises in the way of unexpected steps down into this room and up into that; and
as for getting upstairs to his bedroom, or ever finding his bed when he got up,
either operation would be an utter impossibility to him.
We were up early the next morning, as we wanted to be in Oxford by the afternoon.
It is surprising how early one can get up, when camping out. One does not yearn
for ''just another five minutes'' nearly so much, lying wrapped up in a rug on the
boards of a boat, with a Gladstone bag for a pillow, as one does in a featherbed.
We had finished breakfast, and were through Clifton Lock by half-past eight.
From Clifton to Culham the river banks are flat, monotonous, and uninteresting,
but, after you get through Culhalm Lock – the coldest and deepest lock on the river
– the landscape improves.
At Abingdon, the river passes by the streets. Abingdon is a typical country town
of the smaller order – quiet, eminently respectable, clean, and desperately dull.
It prides itself on being old, but whether it can compare in this respect with Wallingford
and Dorchester seems doubtful. A famous abbey stood here once, and within what is
left of its sanctified walls they brew bitter ale nowadays.
In St. Nicholas Church, at Abingdon, there is a monument to John Blackwall and
his wife Jane, who both, after leading a happy married life, died on the very same
day, August 21, 1625; and in St. Helen's Church, it is recorded that W. Lee, who
died in 1637, ''had in his lifetime issue from his loins two hundred lacking but
three.'' If you work this out you will find that Mr. W. Lee's family numbered one
hundred and ninety-seven. Mr. W. Lee – five times Mayor of Abingdon – was, no doubt,
a benefactor to his generation, but I hope there are not many of his kind about
in this overcrowded nineteenth century.
From Abingdon to Nuneham Courteney is a lovely stretch. Nuneham Park is well
worth a visit. It can be viewed on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The house contains a
fine collection of pictures and curiosities, and the grounds are very beautiful.
The pool under Sandford lasher, just behind the lock, is a very good place to
drown yourself in. The undercurrent is terribly strong, and if you once get down
into it you are all right. An obelisk marks the spot where two men have already
been drowned, while bathing there; and the steps of the obelisk are generally used
as a diving-board by young men now who wish to see if the place really IS dangerous.
Iffley Lock and Mill, a mile before you reach Oxford, is a favourite subject
with the river-loving brethren of the brush. The real article, however, is rather
disappointing, after the pictures. Few things, I have noticed, come quite up to
the pictures of them, in this world.
We passed through Iffley Lock at about half-past twelve, and then, having tidied
up the boat and made all ready for landing, we set to work on our last mile.
Between Iffley and Oxford is the most difficult bit of the river I know. You
want to be born on that bit of water, to understand it. I have been over it a fairish
number of times, but I have never been able to get the hang of it. The man who could
row a straight course from Oxford to Iffley ought to be able to live comfortably,
under one roof, with his wife, his mother-in-law, his elder sister, and the old
servant who was in the family when he was a baby.
First the current drives you on to the right bank, and then on to the left, then
it takes you out into the middle, turns you round three times, and carries you up
stream again, and always ends by trying to smash you up against a college barge.
Of course, as a consequence of this, we got in the way of a good many other boats,
during the mile, and they in ours, and, of course, as a consequence of that, a good
deal of bad language occurred.
I don't know why it should be, but everybody is always so exceptionally irritable
on the river. Little mishaps, that you would hardly notice on dry land, drive you
nearly frantic with rage, when they occur on the water. When Harris or George makes
an ass of himself on dry land, I smile indulgently; when they behave in a chuckle-head
way on the river, I use the most blood-curdling language to them. When another boat
gets in my way, I feel I want to take an oar and kill all the people in it.
The mildest tempered people, when on land, become violent and blood– thirsty
when in a boat. I did a little boating once with a young lady. She was naturally
of the sweetest and gentlest disposition imaginable, but on the river it was quite
awful to hear her.
''Oh, drat the man!'' she would exclaim, when some unfortunate sculler would
get in her way; ''why don't he look where he's going?''
And, ''Oh, bother the silly old thing!'' she would say indignantly, when the
sail would not go up properly. And she would catch hold of it, and shake it quite
Yet, as I have said, when on shore she was kind-hearted and amiable enough.
The air of the river has a demoralising effect upon one's temper, and this it
is, I suppose, which causes even barge men to be sometimes rude to one another,
and to use language which, no doubt, in their calmer moments they regret.
OXFORD. – MONTMORENCY'S IDEA OF HEAVEN. – THE HIRED UP-RIVER BOAT, ITS BEAUTIES
AND ADVANTAGES. – THE ''PRIDE OF THE THAMES.'' – THE WEATHER CHANGES. – THE RIVER
UNDER DIFFERENT ASPECTS. – NOT A CHEERFUL EVENING. – YEARNINGS FOR THE UNATTAINABLE.
– THE CHEERY CHAT GOES ROUND. – GEORGE PERFORMS UPON THE BANJO. – A MOURNFUL MELODY.
– ANOTHER WET DAY. – FLIGHT. – A LITTLE SUPPER AND A TOAST.
We spent two very pleasant days at Oxford. There are plenty of dogs in the town
of Oxford. Montmorency had eleven fights on the first day, and fourteen on the second,
and evidently thought he had got to heaven.
Among folk too constitutionally weak, or too constitutionally lazy, whichever
it may be, to relish up-stream work, it is a common practice to get a boat at Oxford,
and row down. For the energetic, however, the up– stream journey is certainly to
be preferred. It does not seem good to be always going with the current. There is
more satisfaction in squaring one's back, and fighting against it, and winning one's
way forward in spite of it – at least, so I feel, when Harris and George are sculling
and I am steering.
To those who do contemplate making Oxford their starting-place, I would say,
take your own boat – unless, of course, you can take someone else's without any
possible danger of being found out. The boats that, as a rule, are let for hire
on the Thames above Marlow, are very good boats. They are fairly water-tight; and
so long as they are handled with care, they rarely come to pieces, or sink. There
are places in them to sit down on, and they are complete with all the necessary
arrangements – or nearly all – to enable you to row them and steer them.
But they are not ornamental. The boat you hire up the river above Marlow is not
the sort of boat in which you can flash about and give yourself airs. The hired
up-river boat very soon puts a stop to any nonsense of that sort on the part of
its occupants. That is its chief – one may say, its only recommendation.
The man in the hired up-river boat is modest and retiring. He likes to keep on
the shady side, underneath the trees, and to do most of his travelling early in
the morning or late at night, when there are not many people about on the river
to look at him.
When the man in the hired up-river boat sees anyone he knows, he gets out on
to the bank, and hides behind a tree.
I was one of a party who hired an up-river boat one summer, for a few days' trip.
We had none of us ever seen the hired up-river boat before; and we did not know
what it was when we did see it.
We had written for a boat – a double sculling skiff; and when we went down with
our bags to the yard, and gave our names, the man said:
''Oh, yes; you're the party that wrote for a double sculling skiff. It's all
right. Jim, fetch round THE PRIDE OF THE THAMES.''
The boy went, and re-appeared five minutes afterwards, struggling with an antediluvian
chunk of wood, that looked as though it had been recently dug out of somewhere,
and dug out carelessly, so as to have been unnecessarily damaged in the process.
My own idea, on first catching sight of the object, was that it was a Roman relic
of some sort, – relic of WHAT I do not know, possibly of a coffin.
The neighbourhood of the upper Thames is rich in Roman relics, and my surmise
seemed to me a very probable one; but our serious young man, who is a bit of a geologist,
pooh-poohed my Roman relic theory, and said it was clear to the meanest intellect
(in which category he seemed to be grieved that he could not conscientiously include
mine) that the thing the boy had found was the fossil of a whale; and he pointed
out to us various evidences proving that it must have belonged to the preglacial
To settle the dispute, we appealed to the boy. We told him not to be afraid,
but to speak the plain truth: Was it the fossil of a pre-Adamite whale, or was it
an early Roman coffin?
The boy said it was THE PRIDE OF THE THAMES.
We thought this a very humorous answer on the part of the boy at first, and somebody
gave him twopence as a reward for his ready wit; but when he persisted in keeping
up the joke, as we thought, too long, we got vexed with him.
''Come, come, my lad!'' said our captain sharply, ''don't let us have any nonsense.
You take your mother's washing-tub home again, and bring us a boat.''
The boat-builder himself came up then, and assured us, on his word, as a practical
man, that the thing really was a boat – was, in fact, THE boat, the ''double sculling
skiff'' selected to take us on our trip down the river.
We grumbled a good deal. We thought he might, at least, have had it whitewashed
or tarred – had SOMETHING done to it to distinguish it from a bit of a wreck; but
he could not see any fault in it.
He even seemed offended at our remarks. He said he had picked us out the best
boat in all his stock, and he thought we might have been more grateful.
He said it, THE PRIDE OF THE THAMES, had been in use, just as it now stood (or
rather as it now hung together), for the last forty years, to his knowledge, and
nobody had complained of it before, and he did not see why we should be the first
We argued no more.
We fastened the so-called boat together with some pieces of string, got a bit
of wall-paper and pasted over the shabbier places, said our prayers, and stepped
They charged us thirty-five shillings for the loan of the remnant for six days;
and we could have bought the thing out-and-out for four-and– sixpence at any sale
of drift-wood round the coast.
The weather changed on the third day, – Oh! I am talking about our present trip
now, – and we started from Oxford upon our homeward journey in the midst of a steady
The river – with the sunlight flashing from its dancing wavelets, gilding gold
the grey-green beech– trunks, glinting through the dark, cool wood paths, chasing
shadows o'er the shallows, flinging diamonds from the mill-wheels, throwing kisses
to the lilies, wantoning with the weirs' white waters, silvering moss-grown walls
and bridges, brightening every tiny townlet, making sweet each lane and meadow,
lying tangled in the rushes, peeping, laughing, from each inlet, gleaming gay on
many a far sail, making soft the air with glory – is a golden fairy stream.
But the river – chill and weary, with the ceaseless rain-drops falling on its
brown and sluggish waters, with a sound as of a woman, weeping low in some dark
chamber; while the woods, all dark and silent, shrouded in their mists of vapour,
stand like ghosts upon the margin; silent ghosts with eyes reproachful, like the
ghosts of evil actions, like the ghosts of friends neglected – is a spirit-haunted
water through the land of vain regrets.
Sunlight is the life-blood of Nature. Mother Earth looks at us with such dull,
soulless eyes, when the sunlight has died away from out of her. It makes us sad
to be with her then; she does not seem to know us or to care for us. She is as a
widow who has lost the husband she loved, and her children touch her hand, and look
up into her eyes, but gain no smile from her.
We rowed on all that day through the rain, and very melancholy work it was. We
pretended, at first, that we enjoyed it. We said it was a change, and that we liked
to see the river under all its different aspects. We said we could not expect to
have it all sunshine, nor should we wish it. We told each other that Nature was
beautiful, even in her tears.