You are afraid to poke your nose into any room in the house now; so, after walking
up and down the stairs for a while, you go and sit in your own bedroom. This becomes
uninteresting, however, after a time, and so you put on your hat and stroll out
into the garden. You walk down the path, and as you pass the summer-house you glance
in, and there are those two young idiots, huddled up into one corner of it; and
they see you, and are evidently under the idea that, for some wicked purpose of
your own, you are following them about.
''Why don't they have a special room for this sort of thing, and make people
keep to it?'' you mutter; and you rush back to the hall and get your umbrella and
It must have been much like this when that foolish boy Henry VIII. was courting
his little Anne. People in Buckinghamshire would have come upon them unexpectedly
when they were mooning round Windsor and Wraysbury, and have exclaimed, ''Oh! you
here!'' and Henry would have blushed and said, ''Yes; he'd just come over to see
a man;'' and Anne would have said, ''Oh, I'm so glad to see you! Isn't it funny?
I've just met Mr. Henry VIII. in the lane, and he's going the same way I am.''
Then those people would have gone away and said to themselves: ''Oh! we'd better
get out of here while this billing and cooing is on. We'll go down to Kent.''
And they would go to Kent, and the first thing they would see in Kent, when they
got there, would be Henry and Anne fooling round Hever Castle.
''Oh, drat this!'' they would have said. ''Here, let's go away. I can't stand
any more of it. Let's go to St. Albans – nice quiet place, St. Albans.''
And when they reached St. Albans, there would be that wretched couple, kissing
under the Abbey walls. Then these folks would go and be pirates until the marriage
From Picnic Point to Old Windsor Lock is a delightful bit of the river. A shady
road, dotted here and there with dainty little cottages, runs by the bank up to
the ''Bells of Ouseley,'' a picturesque inn, as most up– river inns are, and a place
where a very good glass of ale may be drunk – so Harris says; and on a matter of
this kind you can take Harris's word. Old Windsor is a famous spot in its way. Edward
the Confessor had a palace here, and here the great Earl Godwin was proved guilty
by the justice of that age of having encompassed the death of the King's brother.
Earl Godwin broke a piece of bread and held it in his hand.
''If I am guilty,'' said the Earl, ''may this bread choke me when I eat it!''
Then he put the bread into his mouth and swallowed it, and it choked him, and
After you pass Old Windsor, the river is somewhat uninteresting, and does not
become itself again until you are nearing Boveney. George and I towed up past the
Home Park, which stretches along the right bank from Albert to Victoria Bridge;
and as we were passing Datchet, George asked me if I remembered our first trip up
the river, and when we landed at Datchet at ten o'clock at night, and wanted to
go to bed.
I answered that I did remember it. It will be some time before I forget it.
It was the Saturday before the August Bank Holiday. We were tired and hungry,
we same three, and when we got to Datchet we took out the hamper, the two bags,
and the rugs and coats, and such like things, and started off to look for diggings.
We passed a very pretty little hotel, with clematis and creeper over the porch;
but there was no honeysuckle about it, and, for some reason or other, I had got
my mind fixed on honeysuckle, and I said:
''Oh, don't let's go in there! Let's go on a bit further, and see if there isn't
one with honeysuckle over it.''
So we went on till we came to another hotel. That was a very nice hotel, too,
and it had honey-suckle on it, round at the side; but Harris did not like the look
of a man who was leaning against the front door. He said he didn't look a nice man
at all, and he wore ugly boots: so we went on further. We went a goodish way without
coming across any more hotels, and then we met a man, and asked him to direct us
to a few.
''Why, you are coming away from them. You must turn right round and go back,
and then you will come to the Stag.''
''Oh, we had been there, and didn't like it – no honeysuckle over it.''
''Well, then,'' he said, ''there's the Manor House, just opposite. Have you tried
Harris replied that we did not want to go there – didn't like the looks of a
man who was stopping there – Harris did not like the colour of his hair, didn't
like his boots, either.
''Well, I don't know what you'll do, I'm sure,'' said our informant; ''because
they are the only two inns in the place.''
''No other inns!'' exclaimed Harris.
''None,'' replied the man.
''What on earth are we to do?'' cried Harris.
Then George spoke up. He said Harris and I could get an hotel built for us, if
we liked, and have some people made to put in. For his part, he was going back to
The greatest minds never realise their ideals in any matter; and Harris and I
sighed over the hollowness of all earthly desires, and followed George.
We took our traps into the Stag, and laid them down in the hall.
The landlord came up and said:
''Good evening, gentlemen.''
''Oh, good evening,'' said George; ''we want three beds, please.''
''Very sorry, sir,'' said the landlord; ''but I'm afraid we can't manage it.''
''Oh, well, never mind,'' said George, ''two will do. Two of us can sleep in
one bed, can't we?'' he continued, turning to Harris and me.
Harris said, ''Oh, yes;'' he thought George and I could sleep in one bed very
''Very sorry, sir,'' again repeated the landlord: ''but we really haven't got
a bed vacant in the whole house. In fact, we are putting two, and even three gentlemen
in one bed, as it is.''
This staggered us for a bit.
But Harris, who is an old traveller, rose to the occasion, and, laughing cheerily,
''Oh, well, we can't help it. We must rough it. You must give us a shake-down
in the billiard-room.''
''Very sorry, sir. Three gentlemen sleeping on the billiard-table already, and
two in the coffee-room. Can't possibly take you in to– night.''
We picked up our things, and went over to the Manor House. It was a pretty little
place. I said I thought I should like it better than the other house; and Harris
said, ''Oh, yes,'' it would be all right, and we needn't look at the man with the
red hair; besides, the poor fellow couldn't help having red hair.
Harris spoke quite kindly and sensibly about it.
The people at the Manor House did not wait to hear us talk. The landlady met
us on the doorstep with the greeting that we were the fourteenth party she had turned
away within the last hour and a half. As for our meek suggestions of stables, billiard-room,
or coal-cellars, she laughed them all to scorn: all these nooks had been snatched
up long ago.
Did she know of any place in the whole village where we could get shelter for
''Well, if we didn't mind roughing it – she did not recommend it, mind – but
there was a little beershop half a mile down the Eton road – ''
We waited to hear no more; we caught up the hamper and the bags, and the coats
and rugs, and parcels, and ran. The distance seemed more like a mile than half a
mile, but we reached the place at last, and rushed, panting, into the bar.
The people at the beershop were rude. They merely laughed at us. There were only
three beds in the whole house, and they had seven single gentlemen and two married
couples sleeping there already. A kind-hearted bargeman, however, who happened to
be in the tap-room, thought we might try the grocer's, next door to the Stag, and
we went back.
The grocer's was full. An old woman we met in the shop then kindly took us along
with her for a quarter of a mile, to a lady friend of hers, who occasionally let
rooms to gentlemen.
This old woman walked very slowly, and we were twenty minutes getting to her
lady friend's. She enlivened the journey by describing to us, as we trailed along,
the various pains she had in her back.
Her lady friend's rooms were let. From there we were recommended to No. 27. No.
27 was full, and sent us to No. 32, and 32 was full.
Then we went back into the high road, and Harris sat down on the hamper and said
he would go no further. He said it seemed a quiet spot, and he would like to die
there. He requested George and me to kiss his mother for him, and to tell all his
relations that he forgave them and died happy.
At that moment an angel came by in the disguise of a small boy (and I cannot
think of any more effective disguise an angel could have assumed), with a can of
beer in one hand, and in the other something at the end of a string, which he let
down on to every flat stone he came across, and then pulled up again, this producing
a peculiarly unattractive sound, suggestive of suffering.
We asked this heavenly messenger (as we discovered him afterwards to be) if he
knew of any lonely house, whose occupants were few and feeble (old ladies or paralysed
gentlemen preferred), who could be easily frightened into giving up their beds for
the night to three desperate men; or, if not this, could he recommend us to an empty
pigstye, or a disused limekiln, or anything of that sort. He did not know of any
such place – at least, not one handy; but he said that, if we liked to come with
him, his mother had a room to spare, and could put us up for the night.
We fell upon his neck there in the moonlight and blessed him, and it would have
made a very beautiful picture if the boy himself had not been so over-powered by
our emotion as to be unable to sustain himself under it, and sunk to the ground,
letting us all down on top of him. Harris was so overcome with joy that he fainted,
and had to seize the boy's beer-can and half empty it before he could recover consciousness,
and then he started off at a run, and left George and me to bring on the luggage.
It was a little four-roomed cottage where the boy lived, and his mother – good
soul! – gave us hot b
MARLOW. – BISHAM ABBEY. – THE MEDMENHAM MONKS. – MONTMORENCY THINKS HE WILL MURDER
AN OLD TOM CAT. – BUT EVENTUALLY DECIDES THAT HE WILL LET IT LIVE. – SHAMEFUL CONDUCT
OF A FOX TERRIER AT THE CIVIL SERVICE STORES. – OUR DEPARTURE FROM MARLOW. – AN
IMPOSING PROCESSION. – THE STEAM LAUNCH, USEFUL RECEIPTS FOR ANNOYING AND HINDERING
IT. – WE DECLINE TO DRINK THE RIVER. – A PEACEFUL DOG. – STRANGE DISAPPEARANCE OF
HARRIS AND A PIE.
Marlow is one of the pleasantest river centres I know of. It is a bustling, lively
little town; not very picturesque on the whole, it is true, but there are many quaint
nooks and corners to be found in it, nevertheless – standing arches in the shattered
bridge of Time, over which our fancy travels back to the days when Marlow Manor
owned Saxon Algar for its lord, ere conquering William seized it to give to Queen
Matilda, ere it passed to the Earls of Warwick or to worldly-wise Lord Paget, the
councillor of four successive sovereigns.
There is lovely country round about it, too, if, after boating, you are fond
of a walk, while the river itself is at its best here. Down to Cookham, past the
Quarry Woods and the meadows, is a lovely reach. Dear old Quarry Woods! with your
narrow, climbing paths, and little winding glades, how scented to this hour you
seem with memories of sunny summer days! How haunted are your shadowy vistas with
the ghosts of laughing faces! how from your whispering leaves there softly fall
the voices of long ago!
From Marlow up to Sonning is even fairer yet. Grand old Bisham Abbey, whose stone
walls have rung to the shouts of the Knights Templars, and which, at one time, was
the home of Anne of Cleves and at another of Queen Elizabeth, is passed on the right
bank just half a mile above Marlow Bridge. Bisham Abbey is rich in melodramatic
properties. It contains a tapestry bed-chamber, and a secret room hid high up in
the thick walls. The ghost of the Lady Holy, who beat her little boy to death, still
walks there at night, trying to wash its ghostly hands clean in a ghostly basin.
Warwick, the king-maker, rests there, careless now about such trivial things
as earthly kings and earthly kingdoms; and Salisbury, who did good service at Poitiers.
Just before you come to the abbey, and right on the river's bank, is Bisham Church,
and, perhaps, if any tombs are worth inspecting, they are the tombs and monuments
in Bisham Church. It was while floating in his boat under the Bisham beeches that
Shelley, who was then living at Marlow (you can see his house now, in West street),
composed THE REVOLT OF ISLAM.
By Hurley Weir, a little higher up, I have often thought that I could stay a
month without having sufficient time to drink in all the beauty of the scene. The
village of Hurley, five minutes' walk from the lock, is as old a little spot as
there is on the river, dating, as it does, to quote the quaint phraseology of those
dim days, ''from the times of King Sebert and King Offa.'' Just past the weir (going
up) is Danes' Field, where the invading Danes once encamped, during their march
to Gloucestershire; and a little further still, nestling by a sweet corner of the
stream, is what is left of Medmenham Abbey.
The famous Medmenham monks, or ''Hell Fire Club,'' as they were commonly called,
and of whom the notorious Wilkes was a member, were a fraternity whose motto was
''Do as you please,'' and that invitation still stands over the ruined doorway of
the abbey. Many years before this bogus abbey, with its congregation of irreverent
jesters, was founded, there stood upon this same spot a monastery of a sterner kind,
whose monks were of a somewhat different type to the revellers that were to follow
them, five hundred years afterwards.